The working box

After a nasty incident involving salt water and rust, I started using what I call a ‘working box’ of flies when I’m fishing. So, when I change flies, they don’t go back into the main box wet (or salty!).

Over a session, I might use the same fly several times as conditions change, so I find it a handy way of of organising things. At the end of the day, it’s nice to review what you did, and the decisions you made along the way.

From Top/left: Damsel nymph, Humungous, Olive Woolly Bugger, Tabanas, F-Fly. Middle row: Unweighted Brown Nymph, Caddis Nymph, Pheasant Tail Nymph, Caddis Nymph. Right Row: Throbbing Knob, Stickie 2.0, Stickie 2.0.
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Fly saver

If you fish in small streams (or even larger ones!), you’ll have hung a fly up on a backcast, or a missed strike. Sometimes, it’s just inconvenient, and the fly is within reach, but more often than not, all you can do is hopefully tug… shaking the branch with your 6x tippet, until something gives way; usually the tippet!

This little tool – simple and cheap to make, and super lightweight – can sit quietly in your bag/vest until needed (quite often, if you cast like I do!)

The completed fly saver.

So, what is it? Basically a really light grappling hook. You put it on the tip of your rod, place the hook over a strategic branch, remove your rod (nice and safe!), and haul on the string until the fly is within reach. I rescue at least one or two flies per session on small streams – saves me so much frustration.

You’ll need: a 20cm length of standard garden poly pipe irrigation hose; a length of strong cord (I used brickie’s string); a large fish hook (point and barb removed); a small chunk of compressible foam (not pictured, but I used a bit of super cheap EVA mat).

Cut the ends of the hose on an angle, and cut two slots near the end on one side to thread the cord/hook through.

Cut the point of the hook right off with a pair of wire cutters, and file it flat so there’s no sharp edges.

Tie the string to the hook securely.

Thread the hook through the slots, so it sits out from the hose like a tiny gaff. This is a bit tricky, but you’ll get there!

Finally, stuff a little chunk of foam in the end near the hook – this is to stop your rod tip going all the way through.

And there you have it… a tool I’ve been using for at least five seasons now, and it’s saved me so many flies. I hope it finds a place in your vest!

This tool, photographs and overall concept are copyright © Andrew Harris. Personal use is free, and encouraged, but commercial use must be by express permission.

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Staying dry this summer

Flyfishers eagerly anticipate the warmer weather, when the fish are ‘looking up’, in search of insects on the water surface. We carefully apply floatant to our flies, and do our best to dry them in between ‘drownings’ in the mouth of a fish, or the swirl of a turbulent stream. Eventually, despite our best efforts, dry flies transition to anything but dry, and have to be retired.

Not sure why, but a little while back, I had a bit of an idea about this. In the bottom of our laundry cupboard are a few different treatments we apply to gloves, jackets etc. to keep them dry. They’re pretty good stuff. What would happen, I mused, if I treated my flies with this stuff before I even hit the water?

Here, for your amusement, is what I did, and how I tested it.

I mixed up a fairly strong solution of the waterproofing liquid (about a teaspoon to a cup of water), and soaked the flies for 10 minutes.

I dried them on paper towel in the sun, but these solutions recommend using a tumble dryer to ‘heat cure’ the treatment, so I put them in a 50° oven for 10 minutes. I just felt like that was a fair equivalent.

After drying, it was time to do a test. I’d kept an untreated one out as a control, and I put the two flies in a dish of water, and waited!

Actually, I waited quite a while. They were both bobbing around like corks for at least an hour! Eventually, though, it was clear the untreated one was slowly losing the battle. It wasn’t obvious from above the water, but from the side I could see that its whole body was under, with only the tip of the wing keeping it afloat.

The treated fly, on the other hand, still had most of its hackle above the surface, with the body only just sitting through the surface.

Even more telling was a close look at the flies themselves. After a shake – like you’d do to try giving a fly a quick dry out – the floss body of the treated fly was several shades lighter than the other, and looked dry, while the untreated fly looked waterlogged.

So, there you have it. Not very scientific, but I felt it was conclusive enough that I went on to treat everything in my box that I wanted to float. I’m hoping this summer I’ll spend more time fishing dry flies than I will applying treatments and trying to get them to stay afloat!

Roll your own braided loops

Does anyone else do this? Probably not. The material is very hard to source, the commercial product is not expensive, and most good quality flylines have welded loops already. So why do I do it? I have no idea, but here’s how…

You’re going to need some braided material. I have some Gudebrod. I don’t think they make it any more. It’s too heavy for all my flylines, but it works ok for #8+

It came with a super tricky little hook tool, but I prefer a stout darning needle.

I cut about 24cm. That gives me 8cm of double, and 8cm to attach the flyline.

Fold the line to create an 8cm double.

Insert the needle near the loop and exit about half way/4cm. along the short end.

Thread the tip of the long end through your needle and draw it through with the needle. So now your short end is about 4cm and the long one about 12 cm.

Now, repeat with the short end, drawing it though the long one, and exiting after about 4cm.

If you get the lengths right, the short end will draw up inside the long one, with no cutting required. The long end is now 8cm or so, and ready for you to feed in your flyline.

I like to add a little whip finish with some rod building silk (mine’s also Gudebrod!), and varnish with some UV resin. I also soak a little bit of super glue into the area where the flyline meets the enclosed braid end.

Neat as a pin, eh?

Fly-tying under lockdown

So, with the COVID-19 virus keeping us all tucked up at home, everyone is moving their activities online. Videoconferencing for the masses – pilates, music, comedy, and … fly-tying!

Yes, I know it’s niche, but it’s a way of keeping social networks going, and keeping fisherpeople sane through these long, dreary days! Running a fly-tying demonstration online, though, comes with some special problems.

  1. Fly fishers, in general, are not tech minded people. Getting set up for video conferencing. The apps, the logins, the cameras – it’s all new stuff. So it needs to be as easy as possible.
  2. A fly in a vice is small, and incredibly difficult to capture satisfactorily with a phone. Not impossible, but you have to know some tricks if you want to host a good looking demo.

Here are my solutions to the problems.

Keeping it simple

Videoconferencing isn’t that hard, and there are a few companies who’ve had enormous growth with our enforced ‘social distancing’. Zoom is the obvious example. You can use it for free – you don’t even need an account to join a meeting. There are a couple of problems, though; Free users can only run time limited meetings, there are many options that new users will find confusing, and with all the extra publicity, there’s a few security issues being highlighted.

Zoom is still good, but from what I’ve seen so far, Jitsi is better. It’s so simple, it’s hard to see how anyone could have problems with it. It’s 100% free, Open Source – so there’s scrutiny of the code. It just works. So, sure, use zoom if you want – it’s fine, but maybe try Jitsi first.

Production values

Fly tying is fine, detailed work. If you can’t get a good image, nobody is going to know what’s going on. The problem is that automatic focussing cameras (eg: phones), focus on the most ‘interesting’ thing they can see. They look for edges, and try to resolve them to remove blur. If there’s anything in the frame other than the fly, the camera is going to focus on the largest thing it can see – you, for example! Not good.

This is how I set up for video of my vice. An LED task light directly above the vice, to avoid annoying shadows and reflections. My phone sitting on a mount (I used a lump of foam) about 15cm in front of my vice, and another 15cm behind, a backdrop of neutral grey paper or cardboard, large enough, that it fills the background of the camera view.

Simple fly-tying video setup.

That’s it. Because your vice is the only ‘interesting’ thing the camera can see, it will focus on that. My iPhone would actually go quite a bit closer, but that would make it hard to tie. Still, adjust the distances to suit, the principles are the same.

The quality of the video is quite impressive.

Hosting the meeting

Whichever platform you use, anything can, and will, go wrong in a live demo. If you want to really do this properly, pre-record your video. Even edit and trim out the clumsy bits if you can be bothered.

Now, run the video in a video player application, and use screen sharing to present it to your meeting. Zoom and Jitsi both allow you to share a specific application window, so you only share the video itself, not your whole distracting desktop. You can talk along with the video – replay bits that people want to see again. It all goes so much more smoothly.

Even better, it’s all run from one device, so you’re not running two meetings through your internet connection at once – less bandwidth, more speed.

Lost… my Mojo!

Light hook meets heavy fish!

Maybe I left it by a lake or a river somewhere – it’s been a year at least, and I’ve been looking everywhere for it, but can’t seem to get it back!

Last weekend was a classic example. I fished the Goulburn and a couple of smaller streams nearby. While everyone is talking about hopper feeders, and posting pics of speckled twigwater gold, I fished pretty solidly for three days – saw maybe two rises the whole time. Caught three fish – the largest was still in the small category.

I don’t think I’m a bad fisherman, I’ve had enough success over the years. I’m a pretty good spotter and most times if I see a fish, I’ll be able to get an eat. I’m just not seeing them. Where I am, they ain’t!

By the third morning, the rain, and plenty of self doubt had rolled in. I didn’t even plan to fish that morning, but you know how it is – just a quick look at this corner… well, it looked pretty good, so I fished!

Within a half hour I’d seen, and got an animated response from a decent brown. It failed to commit though, I suspect my nymph was a bit flashy in that clear water, but by the time I’d switched to a duller model, he’d moved on.

Another 20 minutes, and I was hooked up to another good brown. Not sure what happened there. He was off like a rocket, but maybe the hook didn’t set well, we were only connected for a few seconds. Still, things were looking up. A little while later, and I was tired. Nearly packed it in, but a bit of a breather and a drink, and I decided I’d give it another half hour. 

Well, it was one of those moments. You realise that there’s a fish within a rod length, and you see it so clearly you can count the scales between its eyes. It was a long way between those eyes… this was a big rainbow, and it was looking right at me. Fortunately, I stayed still enough that it just turned around and continued on its beat. Now too deep to see, but I took a punt and flicked the nymph up about 5 metres to let it drift back. The indicator stopped.

A 4 weight glass rod doesn’t offer a lot of resistance, so this fish went straight down and buried itself under a log. I could still feel the powerful throbbing of the fish, but it wasn’t going anywhere. After about 15 seconds, it seemed to have had enough, because it tore through the surface, twisting and cartwheeling at what seemed like eye level – nearly reaching the overhanging trees – it spat the hook.

Was I upset? Not at all – I was a giggling wreck! I don’t know what the fish would have weighed, but the rod was never going to give me much control. I was just amazed and delighted to have made the acquaintance with this fish!

When I got my wits together and looked at the fly, it told the story. I was just totally undergunned.

Funny business, fishing. I’m not going to say I’ve got my mojo back, but maybe I know where I can find it!

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Access denied

A couple of years ago Victorian Fisheries Authority and Goulburn Broken CMA put together these excellent signs at various locations around the rivers. They gave fishermen knowledge and certainty about where they were, and were not welcome. Last weekend, I only found one remaining. All the rest I saw were just empty frames. The official line is that they are being stolen. I’m pretty sure that’s utter rubbish, and that this is just vandalism by some landholders, wanting to keep knowledge away from visitors, create confusion about access rights, and block rightful access.

The excellent, and informative signs that *used* to be found along the Goulburn valley.

Add to this, the coincidental appearance of the ‘biosecurity’ signs on farm fences – often within metres of the missing access signs – and you have a pretty clear pattern of a concerted push back by landholders against rightful access to riverbanks. This is just a smokescreen designed to confuse and obstruct.

Landholders don’t ‘own’ the land. Rivers were there long before fences, and will be there long after. But, in just a few years, I’ve noted the serious deterioration of riverbanks at one of my (former) favourite locations due to cattle trampling and collapsing the banks. Farmers can’t hold up the biosecurity flag with one hand, and destroy the environment with the other. They need to be held accountable for the damage they do to public land.

I think it’s well past time the authorities toughened their stance against this behaviour, and set clear rules about river access (for recreation, and grazing) so that everyone knows where they stand.